I've been back in the States for 2 weeks and I finally have my groove back. I feel like a normal person, I am able to sleep the entire night through and I no longer cringe when I make a right-hand turn (well....the driving still throws me off a bit). I'm still overwhelmed by TV, grocery stores and the news. I feel like I'm bombarded with consumerism and overloaded with information. It's a bit much, really.
The best part is that Summer has arrived in California. Real, sunny warm Summer that lasts for days. The sky is incredibly blue, the frogs are croaking, the birds are singing and flowers are bursting with color and perfume. And boy, am I soaking it all in, pollen and all!
I feel just a little bit guilty when I look at the weather in New Zealand. Apparently it was so cold in Dunedin last night that the olive oil was solid this morning! I'm happy Y. is returning to CA next month. He needs some sunshine in his life too!
Monday, May 11, 2009
Sunday, May 3, 2009
On the (Right-Side of the) Road Again
Yesterday I drove a car for the first time since I've been back in the States. Boy, it sure is amazing how much I adapted to driving on the left side of the road!
First of all, I drove a brand new Toyota Highlander which was loaded with all kinds of fancy gadgets, including a cell phone intercom, seat warmers, GPS, and a camera to help you back up. The strangest part was that the car didn't have a key! You push a button to start the car and another button to lock and unlock it.
I was a bit overwhelmed by all the new features, not to mention the size of the car. Our pint-sized Subaru Justy in New Zealand didn't even have power steering and felt like it would blow right off the road in heavy winds! In the Highlander, I felt like I was driving a tank.
But the strangest part was driving on the right side of the road. I really had to focus on my driving, especially when making a turn. I kept thinking I was turning into the wrong lane and my life would flash before my eyes! Turning on a red light was also scary, I felt like I was doing something illegal. And to make matters worse, I kept hitting the windshield wipers instead of the blinker. Crickey dick!
I didn't think 6 months in New Zealand would alter my driving habits so much. I guess I was so focused on learning to drive on the left side of the road and following New Zealand's quirky road rules that I quickly adapted to life on the left. I'm sure after a few more trips behind the wheel I'll be settled in to driving on the right side of the road.
Until then, I swear that my old car never had the steering wheel on the left side of the car....
First of all, I drove a brand new Toyota Highlander which was loaded with all kinds of fancy gadgets, including a cell phone intercom, seat warmers, GPS, and a camera to help you back up. The strangest part was that the car didn't have a key! You push a button to start the car and another button to lock and unlock it.
I was a bit overwhelmed by all the new features, not to mention the size of the car. Our pint-sized Subaru Justy in New Zealand didn't even have power steering and felt like it would blow right off the road in heavy winds! In the Highlander, I felt like I was driving a tank.
But the strangest part was driving on the right side of the road. I really had to focus on my driving, especially when making a turn. I kept thinking I was turning into the wrong lane and my life would flash before my eyes! Turning on a red light was also scary, I felt like I was doing something illegal. And to make matters worse, I kept hitting the windshield wipers instead of the blinker. Crickey dick!
I didn't think 6 months in New Zealand would alter my driving habits so much. I guess I was so focused on learning to drive on the left side of the road and following New Zealand's quirky road rules that I quickly adapted to life on the left. I'm sure after a few more trips behind the wheel I'll be settled in to driving on the right side of the road.
Until then, I swear that my old car never had the steering wheel on the left side of the car....
Friday, May 1, 2009
American Lamb
Tonight I made an easy, delicious lamb dish that I used to make often in New Zealand (see recipe below). It turned out great, except the lamb was, well, different.
Because I try to eat as local as possible, I bought lamb from the U.S. at the grocery store today, even though my eyes wondered over to the New Zealand lamb. There were not as many different cuts to choose from as there are in New Zealand and the chops were huge! The average American lamb weighs about 135 lbs when it is slaughtered, which is considerably larger than lambs in other countries. This results in larger cut-sizes and a higher meat-to-bone ratio. Apparently Americans like their lamb super sized too.
Once everything was cooked and we sat down to eat, I noticed the lamb was extremely tender and rather bland. I barely had to chew and it actually tasted more like beef. There was none of the distinct gamey taste that I remember from my lamb dinners in New Zealand. This is because American lambs are "finished" (fattened) on grain, making the meat more tender and milder in flavor. Apparently Americans enjoy this non-lamb-tasting lamb over natural grass-fed lamb and over 80% of restaurants in the U.S. serve American lamb. Great for the American meat (and the government subsidized grain) industry, bad for lambs and humans.
Sheep are ruminants whose digestive systems are meant to process grass, not grain. Besides, there are numerous health benefits to eating meat from animals that have been grass-fed. According to various research studies, the meat and milk from grass-fed ruminants contains more conjugated lineolic acid (CLA), vitamin E, omega-3 fatty acids, beta-carotene, and vitamin A than the meat and milk from grain-fed animals. CLA and omega-3 fatty acids are good fats with anti-cancer, anti-diabetes, and anti-fat properties.
I prefer the chewy, gamey grass-fed lamb. I like to know that I'm getting my vitamins and that I'm eating something distinct, not some bland, spongy meat product. Besides, I might as well eat chewy meat while I'm young and still have all my teeth!
Coriander Lamb
1 lb diced lamb
1/2 T coriander, crushed and soaked in warm water 10 minutes
1/2 t whole cumin seed
Salt & Pepper
1/4 t cayenne powder
Olive oil
1 medium onion, julienne
3 cloves garlic, chopped
Marinate lamb in spices for up to 2 hours.
Sautee onions and garlic in olive oil until onions are translucent. Add spiced lamb mixture and cook 10-15 minutes, until lamb is cooked through.
Serve over saffron couscous with chopped cilantro.
Tuesday, April 28, 2009
Returning Home: First Impressions
3 flights and 25 hours later I'm back in the States. I feel like possum roadkill and I'm a bit overwhelmed with reverse culture shock, but I wanted to mention some things that I have noticed about being back in the US:
1. There is so much air pollution! Coming in for a landing in San Francisco I couldn't help but notice the gray-brown smog sitting over the Bay Area. New Zealand definitely doesn't have this problem. NZ skies are piercing blue and sparkling clean.
2. They drive on the other side of the road here! Every time we made a turn coming home from the airport, I got freaked out. I don't think I'll be getting behind the wheel anytime soon...
3. Speaking of driving...the roads here are wide and packed with huge, speeding cars, but no tailgaters. Yipeeee!
4. The hot and cold faucets are switched and water comes out of one spigot. I love this, especially when washing my face in the bathroom sink.
5. It's a bit cold out but my house is warm inside!
6. Hot water pressure actually exists.
7. I don't have to worry about how much Internet bandwidth I'm using. I can return to downloading podcasts to my heart's content!
8. There is no Tui song to begin my day.
9. There are lots of snakes, lizards, bugs and spiders. Ugh.
10. Clothes dryer = no more lint ball.
11. The land of plenty has become the land of too much. The consumerism is overwhelming!
12. I'm already missing all the things I said I would miss about New Zealand in an earlier post.
1. There is so much air pollution! Coming in for a landing in San Francisco I couldn't help but notice the gray-brown smog sitting over the Bay Area. New Zealand definitely doesn't have this problem. NZ skies are piercing blue and sparkling clean.
2. They drive on the other side of the road here! Every time we made a turn coming home from the airport, I got freaked out. I don't think I'll be getting behind the wheel anytime soon...
3. Speaking of driving...the roads here are wide and packed with huge, speeding cars, but no tailgaters. Yipeeee!
4. The hot and cold faucets are switched and water comes out of one spigot. I love this, especially when washing my face in the bathroom sink.
5. It's a bit cold out but my house is warm inside!
6. Hot water pressure actually exists.
7. I don't have to worry about how much Internet bandwidth I'm using. I can return to downloading podcasts to my heart's content!
8. There is no Tui song to begin my day.
9. There are lots of snakes, lizards, bugs and spiders. Ugh.
10. Clothes dryer = no more lint ball.
11. The land of plenty has become the land of too much. The consumerism is overwhelming!
12. I'm already missing all the things I said I would miss about New Zealand in an earlier post.
Saturday, April 25, 2009
A Learning Experience
My time in New Zealand has been a huge learning experience. I've learned
sometimes you have to adjust your expectations
it's OK to ask questions about things you don't understand
how it feels to be foreign, new, strange, and different
that I don't like cold, rainy weather
to read more than the guidebooks before you move to a new place
that sometimes you have to give something up to discover something new
how to drive on the left-hand side of the road
that I like lamb more than I thought
that I need my friends and family closer than I thought
that it is possible to hear bagpipes in the South Pacific
when in doubt, always carry an umbrella
sometimes you have to adjust your expectations
it's OK to ask questions about things you don't understand
how it feels to be foreign, new, strange, and different
that I don't like cold, rainy weather
to read more than the guidebooks before you move to a new place
that sometimes you have to give something up to discover something new
how to drive on the left-hand side of the road
that I like lamb more than I thought
that I need my friends and family closer than I thought
that it is possible to hear bagpipes in the South Pacific
when in doubt, always carry an umbrella
Friday, April 24, 2009
I'll Miss...
Beautiful sunsets
The scent of flax flowers
Grass-fed lamb & beef
The Tui's song
New wines
Maori TV
Maori radio
Southern hemisphere constellations
Hedgehogs
Crazy geological formations
Rainbows
Pasha's restaurant
Cabbage trees
Cider on tap
Summer sunsets at 10pm
No traffic
Bacon Butties
Sheep
Tim Tams
Nikau palms
Fresh feijoas
Apricots, peaches, cherries & plums in January
Thyme-covered hills of Central Otago
Knowing I can go curling anytime I want
Curious fantalis
UB spotting
Mountain beech forests
A wood pigeon's crash landing
Empty white-sand beaches
Fields of lupine in bloom
Podocarp trees
Beach combing
Kiwi words & phrases
Penguins
....and Y
The scent of flax flowers
Grass-fed lamb & beef
The Tui's song
New wines
Maori TV
Maori radio
Southern hemisphere constellations
Hedgehogs
Crazy geological formations
Rainbows
Pasha's restaurant
Cabbage trees
Cider on tap
Summer sunsets at 10pm
No traffic
Bacon Butties
Sheep
Tim Tams
Nikau palms
Fresh feijoas
Apricots, peaches, cherries & plums in January
Thyme-covered hills of Central Otago
Knowing I can go curling anytime I want
Curious fantalis
UB spotting
Mountain beech forests
A wood pigeon's crash landing
Empty white-sand beaches
Fields of lupine in bloom
Podocarp trees
Beach combing
Kiwi words & phrases
Penguins
....and Y
Anzac Day
Red PoppyGeorgia O'Keeffe
The ANZAC forces landed at Gallipoli on 25 April 1915, meeting fierce resistance from the Turkish Army commanded by Ataturk. The aim was to capture the Dardanelles, the gateway to the Bosphorus and the Black Sea. However, it quickly became a stale-mate, and the campaign dragged on for eight months. At the end of 1915, Turkey still held Gallipoli and the Allied forces were evacuated after both sides had suffered heavy casualties.
Over 8,000 Australian and 2,700 New Zealand soldiers died at Gallipoli. The deaths of so many young men had a profound impact on Australians and New Zealanders. In 1916, April 25th became the day on which Australia and New Zealand remembered the sacrifice of all those who had died in war.
In New Zealand, Anzac Day is commemorated through memorial services through out the country. A typical commemoration includes a pre-dawn march by returned service personnel and an afternoon parade to the local war memorial.
The red poppy (above) has become a symbol of war remembrance all around the world. The red poppy was the first flower to grow in the battlefields after WWI. In many countries people wear the poppy, usually around Armistice Day (November 11), to remember those who died in war or who still serve, but in New Zealand the poppy is most commonly seen around Anzac Day.
Thursday, April 23, 2009
Kate Morton
Kate Morton is a best-selling Australian author that I've recently discovered. Her extraordinary books are full of mystery, dark secrets, historic detail and unforgettable characters. She has published 2 books so far and is working on a third. Because the stories are too complicated for me to explain, here are the descriptions from the back covers:
The Forgotten Garden (April 2009 Best of the Month on Amazon.com)
A lost child...A terrible secret...
The House at Riverton (Published in Australia and the UK as The Shifting Fog)
http://www.katemorton.com/
The Forgotten Garden (April 2009 Best of the Month on Amazon.com)
A lost child...
On the eve of the first world war, a little girl is found abandoned on a ship to Australia. A mysterious woman called the Authoress had promised to look after her - but the Authoress has disappeared without a trace.
A terrible secret...
On the night of her twenty-first birthday, Nell O'Connor learns a secret that will change her life forever. Decades later, she embarks upon a search for the truth that leads her to the windswept Cornish coast and the strange and beautiful Blackhurst Manor, once owned by the aristocratic Mountrachet family.
A mysterious inheritance...
On Nell's death, her grand-daughter, Cassandra, comes into an unexpected inheritance. Cliff Cottage and its forgotten garden are notorious amongst the Cornish locals for the secrets they hold - secrets about the doomed Mountrachet family and their ward Eliza Makepeace, a writer of dark Victorian fairytales. It is here that Cassandra will finally uncover the truth about the family, and solve the century-old mystery of a little girl lost.
The House at Riverton (Published in Australia and the UK as The Shifting Fog)
Within its four walls lay a secret that would last a lifetime.
Summer 1924: On the night of a glittering Society party, by the lake of a grand English country house, a young poet takes his life. The only witnesses, sisters Hannah and Emmeline Hartford, will never speak to each other again.
Winter 1999: Grace Bradley, 98, onetime housemaid of Riverton Manor, is visited by a young director making a film about the poet’s suicide. Ghosts awaken and memories, long-consigned to the dark reaches of Grace’s mind, begin to sneak back through the cracks. A shocking secret threatens to emerge; something history has forgotten but Grace never could.
Set as the war-shattered Edwardian summer surrenders to the decadent twenties, The House at Riverton is a thrilling mystery and a compelling love story.
Check out Kate Morton's website:http://www.katemorton.com/
Do the Hokey Pokey
Hokey Pokey ice cream is a Kiwi institution and I embrace it whole heartedly! This yummy treat consists of vanilla ice cream with bits of Hokey Pokey (sponge toffee candy) mixed in. The toffee is made by mixing sugar and golden syrup (a baking staple in the Kiwi kitchen) with baking soda to create a frothy mixture, which sets like a crunchy toffee. It tastes sorta like caramel or butterscotch with a bit of crunch. Delicious!
Hokey Pokey ice cream has recently become popular in Japan and the South Pacific. Although, sadly, it's not available in the U.S. Guess I'll have to make my own!
Tuatara
No, Tuatara isn't another Japanese monster who battles Godzilla in some really bad B movie. The Tuatara is a lizard-like reptile that is found only in New Zealand. They are the only living members of the Order Sphenodontia, which lived during the age of the dinosaurs, over 200 million years ago!
My favorite part about the Tuatara is that it has a third eye on the top of its head! The eye has its own lens, cornea, retina and degenerated nerve connection to the brain, suggesting it evolved from a real eye. The eye is only visible in hatchlings, which have a translucent patch at the top center of the skull. After four to six months the eye becomes covered with opaque scales and pigment. Its purpose is unknown, but it may be useful in absorbing ultraviolet light to manufacture vitamin D or to help regulate body temperature.
Today the Tuatara only lives on a few islands around New Zealand, although there are many captive breeding colonies on the mainland. There is a large Tuatara colony at the Southland Museum in Invercargill where the public can see these amazing reptiles up close. Unfortunately when we visited, it was too cold for the lizards so they were all comatose in their burrows. Although we did get to see 11 hatchlings, along with their third "eye".
Maybe Godzilla vs The Three-Eyed Tuatara will be coming to a theater near you....
Villa Maria
I've found my favorite New Zealand winery: Villa Maria Estate
Founded in 1961, Villa Maria is one of New Zealand's leading winemakers. Villa Maria wine's have won numerous awards and the estate was named one of the world’s 50 great wine producers by Wine Spectator magazine.
My favorite is the 2006 Reserve Syrah, but the Private Bin Riesling and Gewurztraminer are excellent too!
Check out Villa Maria Estate
http://www.villamaria.co.nz/home.php
Cheers!
Founded in 1961, Villa Maria is one of New Zealand's leading winemakers. Villa Maria wine's have won numerous awards and the estate was named one of the world’s 50 great wine producers by Wine Spectator magazine.
My favorite is the 2006 Reserve Syrah, but the Private Bin Riesling and Gewurztraminer are excellent too!
Check out Villa Maria Estate
http://www.villamaria.co.nz/home.php
Cheers!
Wednesday, April 22, 2009
Watching Grass Grow: The Sport of Cricket
Call me crazy, but I just don't get Cricket, and probably never will. I think you have to be born into the sport to understand it. I've watched a bit of it on TV here in New Zealand and heard the scores on the radio, but it all looks and sounds so complicated!
Here are some excerpts of recent scores:
"play was halted by rain 15 minutes after the lunch break with New Zealand struggling at 48 for three in their second innings, after being forced to follow on 326 runs behind Australia's first innings."
"stumps were drawn early on the fourth and final day with England A 158 for one in their second innings, with captain Robert Key and Jonathan Trott adding an unbroken 140 for the second wicket."
"McCullum's demise after he and Ryder crunched an opening stand worth 166 triggered an implosion that saw five wickets lost for 37 in the space of 53 balls."
"Harbhajan's first two overs cost 29 but the spinner atoned when Ryder chipped to long-off to leave New Zealand in dire straits at 188 for four."
"After leg-spinner Shahid Afridi took 6-38 to dismiss Australia for 168, Pakistan needed just 44.1 overs to cruise to 6-171."
"Afridi's heroics with the ball were capped by causing Australia more pain with the bat, belting 24 from 16 balls, including five boundaries, in the middle order."
"Indian opening batsmen Virender Sehwag and Gautam Gambhir made a revised target of 54 in six overs look easy, with Sehwag finishing the match with his fourth six in an innings of 38 not out off 16 balls."
Huh?
The BBC offers a nice glossary of some of the more creative cricketing slang.
http://news.bbc.co.uk/sport2/hi/cricket/skills/6100344.stm
My favorite Cricket term is Googly.
If you’re interested in learning more about Cricket, or you’re bored, or just plain crazy, check out the Bollywood film Lagaan. It’s 4 hour Indian musical about Cricket! It just might approximate the thrilling, edge-of-your-seat, experience that is a Cricket match.
New Music
I've discovered some great new music here in New Zealand and thought you might be interested. There should be something for everyone....
Bic Runga
http://www.bicrunga.com/
A young singer/songwriter from Christchurch. Her voice is beautiful and soothing. At different times her music reminds me of Jewell, Sheryl Crow, Beth Orton and Norah Jones. Her song "Sway" was on the American Pie Soundtrack and received lots of airplay in the States.
Moana Maniapoto
http://www.moananz.com/
A Maori singer/songwriter that blends traditional Maori song and chant with soul, reggae and hip hop. Her music is a wonderful crossroads of the past and present.
Black Seeds
http://theblackseeds.com/
A Wellington band that fuses reggae, funk and dub. Fun, easy, mellow music. Former band member Bret McKenzie is also a member of the comedy duo Flight of the Conchords. Favorite songs are "Cool Me Down" and"Good People."
Gurumuul
http://www.gurrumul.com/
My personal favorite: A blind Aboriginal singer from an island in Arnhemland, in northern Australia. He sings in Yolngu Matha, his native language. His voice is incredibly beautiful, you will melt! Reminds me a lot of Aaron Neville. I got his self-titled album on iTunes.
Scribe
http://www.myspace.com/scribedirtyrecords
A very popular rap/hip hop artist of Samoan descent. You can also check out his songs on iTunes. He's collaborated with Wyclef Jean and Talib Kwali. Top hits include "Stand Up," "Not Many" and "Dreaming."
Kommikal
http://www.myspace.com/conjurur
A bi-lingual (Maori/English) rap/hip hop artist. His music often includes traditional Maori chants, such as Haka war-cries. The Maori language seems to suit this music genre nicely.
Happy listening!
Bic Runga
http://www.bicrunga.com/
A young singer/songwriter from Christchurch. Her voice is beautiful and soothing. At different times her music reminds me of Jewell, Sheryl Crow, Beth Orton and Norah Jones. Her song "Sway" was on the American Pie Soundtrack and received lots of airplay in the States.
Moana Maniapoto
http://www.moananz.com/
A Maori singer/songwriter that blends traditional Maori song and chant with soul, reggae and hip hop. Her music is a wonderful crossroads of the past and present.
Black Seeds
http://theblackseeds.com/
A Wellington band that fuses reggae, funk and dub. Fun, easy, mellow music. Former band member Bret McKenzie is also a member of the comedy duo Flight of the Conchords. Favorite songs are "Cool Me Down" and"Good People."
Gurumuul
http://www.gurrumul.com/
My personal favorite: A blind Aboriginal singer from an island in Arnhemland, in northern Australia. He sings in Yolngu Matha, his native language. His voice is incredibly beautiful, you will melt! Reminds me a lot of Aaron Neville. I got his self-titled album on iTunes.
Scribe
http://www.myspace.com/scribedirtyrecords
A very popular rap/hip hop artist of Samoan descent. You can also check out his songs on iTunes. He's collaborated with Wyclef Jean and Talib Kwali. Top hits include "Stand Up," "Not Many" and "Dreaming."
Kommikal
http://www.myspace.com/conjurur
A bi-lingual (Maori/English) rap/hip hop artist. His music often includes traditional Maori chants, such as Haka war-cries. The Maori language seems to suit this music genre nicely.
Happy listening!
Tuesday, April 21, 2009
FYI
So there has been a change of plans and I am moving back to California on Sunday. Big surprise, I know. I am unable to find a job in my field and I need some sunshine in my life, literally and figuratively.
I will continue to Blog about New Zealand this week and about settling back into American life for as long I have something to say. After that.....we'll see where I am.
Thank you all for continuing to read my silly ramblings on my life in New Zealand!
I will continue to Blog about New Zealand this week and about settling back into American life for as long I have something to say. After that.....we'll see where I am.
Thank you all for continuing to read my silly ramblings on my life in New Zealand!
The Letter R
The letter "R" has a strange status in New Zealand. Kiwis add an "er" to the end of words that end in "a" (called an Intrusive R in linguistics) but they don't always pronounce the "r" in words that already have one at the end.
For example:
I'm from AmericeR and our president is Barack ObameR
The ca I drive is a Subaru Justy
The koaleR bear lives in AustralieR
Many cheap products in New Zealand come from ChineR, in AsieR
I ordered a vodkeR martini at the ba last night
I have a great ideaR
I need to buy a ja of pasta sauce for the lasagne
For example:
I'm from AmericeR and our president is Barack ObameR
The ca I drive is a Subaru Justy
The koaleR bear lives in AustralieR
Many cheap products in New Zealand come from ChineR, in AsieR
I ordered a vodkeR martini at the ba last night
I have a great ideaR
I need to buy a ja of pasta sauce for the lasagne
Thursday, April 16, 2009
The Pavlova Wars
The relationship between New Zealand and Australia is something like a sibling rivalry: each country jokes about the other but rely upon one another at the end of the day. Much of the rivalry comes from sports, although there are many disputes over the nationality of famous people and rock bands, and even the origins of some foods.
The most famous sporting incident that Kiwis will NEVER let the Aussies live down is The Underarm Bowling Incident which occurred on February 1, 1981 when New Zealand was playing Australia in the cricket World Series Cup in Melbourne, Australia. In order to prevent New Zealand from scoring to tie the match, the Australian bowler delivered the last ball underarm, along the ground. This action was technically legal, but seen as being against the spirit of the game.
The Underarm Bowling Incident of '81 continues to fan the flames of rivalry between Kiwis and Aussies. I've heard it argued about between my Kiwi and Aussie friends, especially after a few beers. New Zealand Prime Minister, John Key, recently said the Kiwis were ready to forgive Australia the underarm bowl, explaining that "we've certainly stopped the counseling sessions."
Another sporting rivalry is Phar Lap, a thoroughbred horse that was born in New Zealand and raced in Australia, winning two consecutive Melbourne Cups. Both countries claim him as their own.
The actor Russell Crowe is also claimed by both counties. Crowe was born in New Zealand and his family moved to Australia when he was 4 but he did not become an Australian citizen until 2006. Kiwis were recently annoyed when Australia put Crowe on a series of postage stamps recognizing great actors and actresses of Australia.
Actor Sam Neil is disputed across the Tasman Sea. Neil was born in Ireland to a Kiwi father and English mother, grew up in New Zealand, lives in Sydney Australia, and runs Two Paddocks Winery in New Zealand. Figure that one out.
In fact, many Kiwis move to Australia and the large continent is often referred to by Kiwis as the "brain drain." Former New Zealand prime minister, Robert Muldoon, once famously quipped that "New Zealanders who emigrate to Australia raise the IQ of both countries."
The rivalry rages on in the kitchen as well. Both countries claim to have been the inventors of Pavlova, a baked meringue dessert topped with whipped cream and fresh fruit and named after the Russian ballerina, Anna Pavlova, who visited both countries in the 1920s. Although, recent evidence from a Kiwi food historian suggests that the Kiwis did indeed develop a recipe for Pavlova first....
New Zealanders and Australians also argue about the origins of the Lamington, a sponge cake coated in chocolate icing and dried coconut. I'm still not sure why any country would want to claim this bland dessert as their own.
And then there are the sheep jokes. I won't go into detail about them, but I'm sure you can imagine....
If your interested in making a truly Antipodean dessert, here is a simple recipe for the perfect Pavlova:
*Preheat an oven to 150C (300F).
*Whisk five egg whites into stiff peaks, adding 225g caster sugar and a pinch of salt.
*Fold in two teaspoons of cornflour and one teaspoon of vinegar. Then spoon the mixture on to a baking sheet, or into a lined cake tin.
*Cook for 45-60 minutes.
*Whip 275ml of double cream with a teaspoon of Kirsch. When the pavlova is cool, top with the cream, soft fruit (such as raspberries, strawberries, kiwi fruit, or passionfruit), sugar and serve.
Wednesday, April 15, 2009
Boy Racers
The term "Boy Racer" refers to a phenomenon that has spread through out New Zealand in the past few years. Boy Racers are teenage or twenty-something boys who modify their cars and drive irresponsibly, illegally, and generally disturb the local community through noise and vandalism.
The cars driven by Boy Racers are extremely modified and extremely ugly. Typical modifications for a boy racer include:
- Hideous paint jobs, often including patterns, words or images
- Ridiculously large spoilers
- Huge, earth-shattering exhaust pipes
- Engine modifications
- Neon lights underneath the car (this is my favorite)
- Lowering
- Wide race tires
- Loud sound systems
In fact, Boy Racers have become such a problem in New Zealand that 5 % of road deaths are caused by Boy Racers. In 2003 the Land Transport (Unauthorised Street and Drag Racing) Amendment Act, also known as the "Boy Racer Act," was signed into law. The Act is aimed at street racing and burnouts in public places.
Under the law, illegal activities include driving a car in an illegal street race or accelerating in an unnecessary way. Other infractions include wheel spins, "donuts" or driving a car in a way that causes the car to lose traction. There are heavy penalties for breaking the law, such as jail time, car impoundment, and fines.
Apparently, the law has helped police collect and impound many cars, but the Boy Racers continue to be a problem. A hospital in Christchurch has to move their patients on the weekends because the noise caused by Boy Racers on the street below is so bad. In January, a Christchurch policeman was ambushed by 300 Boy Racers who threw bottles at his car and shot at him with air rifles. The policeman just drove away, leaving the Boy Racers to their own destructive devises.
After the incident city officials and the public called for more aggressive laws to deal with the Boy Racer problem, including crushing their seized cars to get them off the road. The Boy Racers responded by threatening the Christchurch Mayor for his tough stance against them. They parked their cars outside his home, yelling and revving their engines.
Hmmm, so much for law enforcement.
Friday, April 10, 2009
The Cadbury Easter Bunny
Did you know that the Cadbury Company has a factory in Dunedin? Yeah, I didn't either before I moved here. Some days the air smells like chocolate and you know the factory is making up a big batch of goodies! You can take a tour of "Cadbury World" and learn how their chocolate is made. I haven't made a visit yet, but I'll report back when/if I do.
The Dunedin Cadbury factory opened in 1930 and now produces some of New Zealand's favorite candies including Pinkys, Jaffas, Perky Nana, Chocolate Fish, Freddo, Wine Gums, and Pineapple Lumps. And now that Easter is upon us, the shops are filled with all the Cadbury Chocolate Bunnies and Creme Eggs you could ever want. (Alas, there is not a colorful, sugar-coated marshmallow Peep in sight....)
I always wanted the Easter Bunny to leave some of these eggs in my Easter basket, but it's probably better that they never appeared. Honestly, I've never actually managed to have more than one bite of these sickly sweet, gooey eggs. I'd rather eat a box of Peeps!
You can check out Cadbury New Zealand here:
http://www.cadbury.co.nz/
And just for fun, check out the Peeps webpage!
http://www.marshmallowpeeps.com/
Hope everyone has a Happy Easter!
Thursday, April 9, 2009
NZ TV
On some cold and rainy nights we drag out our "entertainment system" (which includes a bulky soviet-era TV and a set of rabbit ears that extend 4 feet in the air) to watch some of the spectacular offerings on New Zealand TV. Reality shows are extremely popular here, including many from the U.S. and England, and there are some ridiculously bad drama/soap operas that we just can't bring ourselves to watch.
Some NZ-produced reality shows gems:
Border Patrol: This show tracks people, mail, and goods entering the country through Auckland International Airport and the Auckland Harbor. New Zealand has very strict customs policies and the inspection of items entering the country is taken very seriously. This includes drugs, weapons, pornography, terrorists, food, animals, fake medicines, insects and even illegal fossils! Some of the more "creative" goods brought or sent to NZ have been meth (known as "P" here) disguised in hot chocolate packets, illegal honey, an alligator head, live fish sent through the mail, and even a whale penis bone. Quite fun to watch actually, humans sure are crafty when it comes to smuggling!
Piha Rescue: This show follows the daily routine of the lifeguards that patrol the famous surf beach, Piha, on the North Island. Swimmers (and non-swimmers apparently) are constantly being rescued just minutes after entering the water, often after ignoring the lifeguards' warnings. But without the skimpy bathing suits and slow-motion running of Baywatch fame, just how many times can you watch lifeguards run into the water and drag in some poor swimmer?
New Zealand's Next Top Model: Like America's Next Top Model, except without Tyra, or Miss J, or good hair and make-up, or even good-looking models....Yeah, it's that bad.
Another interesting discovery on NZ TV are the commercials. There are lots of creative beer commercials (of course), but there are also lots of commercials that warn about the hazards of drinking. These are often very graphic, and involve car accidents, children and/or violence. I'm always surprised by these commercials, even when I've seen them before.
Interestingly, there are lots of commercials for male depression. Apparently depressed men in New Zealand aren't getting the help they need.
My favorite commercial is a tampon commercial about a woman and a beaver. The woman "takes care" of the beaver, taking it to the hair salon, the beach, out to lunch....I find it hilarious!
You can watch the commercial here
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mxkUE5TtOFQ
And then there is the language and nudity on TV. Lets just say that some things are best left unsaid, or seen, for that matter....
Some NZ-produced reality shows gems:
Border Patrol: This show tracks people, mail, and goods entering the country through Auckland International Airport and the Auckland Harbor. New Zealand has very strict customs policies and the inspection of items entering the country is taken very seriously. This includes drugs, weapons, pornography, terrorists, food, animals, fake medicines, insects and even illegal fossils! Some of the more "creative" goods brought or sent to NZ have been meth (known as "P" here) disguised in hot chocolate packets, illegal honey, an alligator head, live fish sent through the mail, and even a whale penis bone. Quite fun to watch actually, humans sure are crafty when it comes to smuggling!
Piha Rescue: This show follows the daily routine of the lifeguards that patrol the famous surf beach, Piha, on the North Island. Swimmers (and non-swimmers apparently) are constantly being rescued just minutes after entering the water, often after ignoring the lifeguards' warnings. But without the skimpy bathing suits and slow-motion running of Baywatch fame, just how many times can you watch lifeguards run into the water and drag in some poor swimmer?
New Zealand's Next Top Model: Like America's Next Top Model, except without Tyra, or Miss J, or good hair and make-up, or even good-looking models....Yeah, it's that bad.
Another interesting discovery on NZ TV are the commercials. There are lots of creative beer commercials (of course), but there are also lots of commercials that warn about the hazards of drinking. These are often very graphic, and involve car accidents, children and/or violence. I'm always surprised by these commercials, even when I've seen them before.
Interestingly, there are lots of commercials for male depression. Apparently depressed men in New Zealand aren't getting the help they need.
My favorite commercial is a tampon commercial about a woman and a beaver. The woman "takes care" of the beaver, taking it to the hair salon, the beach, out to lunch....I find it hilarious!
You can watch the commercial here
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mxkUE5TtOFQ
And then there is the language and nudity on TV. Lets just say that some things are best left unsaid, or seen, for that matter....
Wednesday, April 8, 2009
No Mo' Moa
Reconstruction of a Moa
Credit: Zoological Society of London
The Moa was a huge, flightless bird that once roamed all over New Zealand but was hunted to extinction by the Maori. In fact, research suggest that it took only 300 years for the Maori to hunt the Moa to complete extinction after the Maori arrived in New Zealand around 1200 CE.Credit: Zoological Society of London
The Moa was an herbivore that thrived in New Zealand for thousands of years, living in forest, shrub land, and sub-alpine environments. It was once widely accepted that there were 10 species of Moa, however recent DNA evidence suggests that there may have only been 2 or 3 species. DNA testing also shows the Moa's closest relatives are the Australian Cassowary and Emu. The largest Moa stood over 12 feet tall and weighed over 500 lbs!
The Moa was a great source of food for the Maori. Archaeological evidence shows that the meat was cooked in large, outdoor ovens, the bones were fashioned into hooks, pendents and tools, skin and feathers were made into clothes, and the eggs were eaten and the shells used to carry water.
There are thousands of Moa remains, including recent bones, fossil bones, feet, feathers, soft tissue, eggshell fragments, footprint tracks, gizzard stones and even coprolites (fossilized poop)! Many caves have large deposits of Moa bones, including complete skeletons that allow scientists to accurately recreate the Moa's body structure.
Interestingly, although it is widely accepted that the Moa is extinct, there are some speculations that Moa still exist in extremely remote locations, such as Westland on the South Island. Every year there are sightings, but no strong evidence has been put forward to suggest that the Moa lives on.
To learn more about the Moa and see images, check out
http://www.teara.govt.nz/TheBush/NativeBirdsAndBats/Moa/en
Monday, April 6, 2009
Bacon Buttie!
I've discovered something that makes the 8:30 am Saturday morning Farmer's Market worth getting out of bed for (besides the excellent fresh fruits and veggies, of course): The Bacon Buttie.
A Bacon Buttie consists of 2 slices of white bread (as in Wonder) packed with hot, salty bacon, caramelized onions relish, mustard and ketchup. The Bacon Buttie is extremely popular and there is always a long line to order one. I think I'll have to start making them at home during the week....
Mmmmm, bacon!
A Bacon Buttie consists of 2 slices of white bread (as in Wonder) packed with hot, salty bacon, caramelized onions relish, mustard and ketchup. The Bacon Buttie is extremely popular and there is always a long line to order one. I think I'll have to start making them at home during the week....
Mmmmm, bacon!
Friday, April 3, 2009
Can You Repeat That Please?
OK, I've been here almost 6 months and I still can't understand Kiwis sometimes! Not only does the accent make it hard, but Kiwis talk fast and often mumble. My friends for whom English is a second language joke that successfully ordering a sandwich at Subway with the all ingredients you actually want is the gold star of understanding the Kiwi language.
Some things here also have a different name than we are used to in the US, making communication even more difficult or possibly embarrassing!
Here are some of those words:
Serviette=Napkin
Napkin or Nappy=Diaper
Torch=Flashlight
Boot=Trunk of the car
Bonnet=Hood of the car
Fringe=Bangs
Root=To have sex (Yeah, don't say you "root" for a sports team here...)
Braces=Suspenders
Capsicum=Bell Pepper
Coriander=Cilantro
Courgettes=Zucchini
Aubergine=Eggplant
Chips=Fries
Crisps=Chips
Flannel=Washcloth
Jandals=Flip-flops/thongs
Jersey=Sweater
Jumper=Wool sweater
Lolly=Candy
Nought=Zero
Zed=the letter Z
Petrol=Gasoline
Rubber=Eraser
Sticking plaster=Band-aid
Valet=A person who cleans cars, NOT parks them
Some things here also have a different name than we are used to in the US, making communication even more difficult or possibly embarrassing!
Here are some of those words:
Serviette=Napkin
Napkin or Nappy=Diaper
Torch=Flashlight
Boot=Trunk of the car
Bonnet=Hood of the car
Fringe=Bangs
Root=To have sex (Yeah, don't say you "root" for a sports team here...)
Braces=Suspenders
Capsicum=Bell Pepper
Coriander=Cilantro
Courgettes=Zucchini
Aubergine=Eggplant
Chips=Fries
Crisps=Chips
Flannel=Washcloth
Jandals=Flip-flops/thongs
Jersey=Sweater
Jumper=Wool sweater
Lolly=Candy
Nought=Zero
Zed=the letter Z
Petrol=Gasoline
Rubber=Eraser
Sticking plaster=Band-aid
Valet=A person who cleans cars, NOT parks them
Poolside Haka
The other night we went for a swim at the community pool and witnessed 2 swim teams perform the Haka before their swim meet.
The Haka is the traditional Maori dance that includes shouting, postures, and facial expressions and is performed by a group. The All Blacks, the New Zealand rugby team, has popularized the Haka through their performances before a match. However, the team's war Haka is only one version of Haka among many, and not all Haka are exclusively war dances or only performed by men.
Here is a video of the All Blacks performing the Haka before a match against England in 2004. It also has translations of the song's words.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tdMCAV6Yd0Y
Every time I see the Haka performed I get goosebumps. It's such an intense, passionate dance that rattles me to the core. It's quite intimidating!
However, the skinny, white, teenage swimmers performing the Haka on the pool deck were a different story.
The Haka is the traditional Maori dance that includes shouting, postures, and facial expressions and is performed by a group. The All Blacks, the New Zealand rugby team, has popularized the Haka through their performances before a match. However, the team's war Haka is only one version of Haka among many, and not all Haka are exclusively war dances or only performed by men.
Here is a video of the All Blacks performing the Haka before a match against England in 2004. It also has translations of the song's words.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tdMCAV6Yd0Y
Every time I see the Haka performed I get goosebumps. It's such an intense, passionate dance that rattles me to the core. It's quite intimidating!
However, the skinny, white, teenage swimmers performing the Haka on the pool deck were a different story.
Wednesday, April 1, 2009
Death by Cold
Oh boy, the days are becoming shorter, darker, and colder here in the southern hemisphere, a reminder that winter is fast approaching. Winter in Dunedin means a bitterly cold house, and just in case you still weren't convinced about the severity of cold New Zealand homes......
Last week, one of Dunedin's weeklies published a story about HomeSmart, a research program designed to investigate how to help Dunedin home owners keep their houses warmer during the "bitterly cold" winter months. Research shows that because of Dunedin's location and a high number of old wooden houses without insulation, homes here are even colder then others in New Zealand. The research team leader said that she had heard stories of people waking up to "frost on the duvet covers and ice on the inside of their windows" (Jones, Pam. March 26 2009 Dunedin Homes in Winter to be Studied. The Star. pg 4). Friends of mine have warned me that during the winter months, houses are often colder than the refrigerator!Brrrrr......
Previous studies have also looked at cold New Zealand homes. A 2006 study by the Commissioner for the Environment, showed more than one million people were living in cold, damp New Zealand homes below the minimum temperature of 18 degree C recommended by the World Health Organization.
In a presentation made to the NZ Government Treasury, Otago University researcher and healthy-housing expert Philippa Howden-Chapman demonstrated that New Zealand has low building code standards and there is high level of deferred maintenance, leading to poorly built homes that are cold and damp (Howden-Chapman. 2006. Housing in New Zealand: private assets with public consequences).
But that's not all. Recent studies also suggest that there is a relationship between cold homes and poor health. A 2007 study at the University ofOtago found that 1600 New Zealanders die every winter, more than during other season (Davie GS, Baker MG, Hales S, Carlin JB. 2007. Trends and determinants of excess winter mortality in New Zealand: 1980 to 2000. BMC Public Health 7:263). The researchers suggested that warmer homes could help keep people healthier during the winter.
So what's the problem? Why don't we just crank up the heater? Well, energy is extremely expensive in New Zealand and central heating doesn't exist. There is no gas main so most homes are heated with a heat pump, a heater/air conditioner contraption that converts outside air to warm/cool air inside your house. Heat pumps are becoming more and more popular as a "greener" alternative to coal (yes, coal is still used here!) and wood stoves.
We have 1 heat pump in the living room/dining room/kitchen. It works OK when the door to the rest of the house is closed, but this means that only one room is warm while the rest of the house is frigid, including the bedroom. And for some reason it's mounted by the ceiling, and heat rises, right......?
Anyway, here is a link to a good article about these studies and the consequences of a cold home.
http://www.stuff.co.nz/national/health/461848
Hope you are warm and healthy!
Last week, one of Dunedin's weeklies published a story about HomeSmart, a research program designed to investigate how to help Dunedin home owners keep their houses warmer during the "bitterly cold" winter months. Research shows that because of Dunedin's location and a high number of old wooden houses without insulation, homes here are even colder then others in New Zealand. The research team leader said that she had heard stories of people waking up to "frost on the duvet covers and ice on the inside of their windows" (Jones, Pam. March 26 2009 Dunedin Homes in Winter to be Studied. The Star. pg 4). Friends of mine have warned me that during the winter months, houses are often colder than the refrigerator!Brrrrr......
Previous studies have also looked at cold New Zealand homes. A 2006 study by the Commissioner for the Environment, showed more than one million people were living in cold, damp New Zealand homes below the minimum temperature of 18 degree C recommended by the World Health Organization.
In a presentation made to the NZ Government Treasury, Otago University researcher and healthy-housing expert Philippa Howden-Chapman demonstrated that New Zealand has low building code standards and there is high level of deferred maintenance, leading to poorly built homes that are cold and damp (Howden-Chapman. 2006. Housing in New Zealand: private assets with public consequences).
But that's not all. Recent studies also suggest that there is a relationship between cold homes and poor health. A 2007 study at the University ofOtago found that 1600 New Zealanders die every winter, more than during other season (Davie GS, Baker MG, Hales S, Carlin JB. 2007. Trends and determinants of excess winter mortality in New Zealand: 1980 to 2000. BMC Public Health 7:263). The researchers suggested that warmer homes could help keep people healthier during the winter.
So what's the problem? Why don't we just crank up the heater? Well, energy is extremely expensive in New Zealand and central heating doesn't exist. There is no gas main so most homes are heated with a heat pump, a heater/air conditioner contraption that converts outside air to warm/cool air inside your house. Heat pumps are becoming more and more popular as a "greener" alternative to coal (yes, coal is still used here!) and wood stoves.
We have 1 heat pump in the living room/dining room/kitchen. It works OK when the door to the rest of the house is closed, but this means that only one room is warm while the rest of the house is frigid, including the bedroom. And for some reason it's mounted by the ceiling, and heat rises, right......?
Anyway, here is a link to a good article about these studies and the consequences of a cold home.
http://www.stuff.co.nz/national/health/461848
Hope you are warm and healthy!
Friday, March 27, 2009
Politics as (un)Usual
Did you know that New Zealand had the first transsexual elected to Parliament? (Well, maybe the first known transsexual…) Anyway, Georgina Beyer was elected to Parliament in 1999 in the Wairarapa region on the North Island. Her website describes her life as “the story of a Maori transsexual and former sex-worker, who was voted into the New Zealand Government by a largely white rural electorate." Incredible! In 2002, Georgie Girl, a documentary about Georgina's life was released and won 5 international film awards.
I would like to think that the United States would be as open-minded as the Kiwis are when it comes to electing lesbians/gays/bisexuals/tansgenders to a top political position. However, our track record proves otherwise. To date:
I would like to think that the United States would be as open-minded as the Kiwis are when it comes to electing lesbians/gays/bisexuals/tansgenders to a top political position. However, our track record proves otherwise. To date:
- Only two members US House of Representatives are openly gay: Barney Frank (D-MA) and Jared Polis (D-CO)
- Only one member of the US House of Representatives is openly lesbian: Tammy Baldwin (D-WI)
- No members of the US House of Representatives are openly bisexual or transgender
- No members of the US Senate are openly lesbian, gay, bisexual or transgendered
Wednesday, March 25, 2009
The Barfies are Back!
Fall is upon us here in New Zealand and another school year is underway at the University of Otago which means the students are back in town. In a big way. Here in Dunedin, Uni students are known as "Scarfies" due the traditional blue and gold scarves worn to rugby games during the freezing winters. However, I like to call them Barfies, due to their drinking habits.
Compared to the States, New Zealand takes a very relaxed attitude toward drinking, with 18 the drinking age and drinking allowed in most public areas. From what I've seen, Barfies definitely take advantage of this freedom and take partying to a whole new level, a scary one. On any given night you can see hordes of young drunk students stumbling out to the pubs or find a couch burning party at some one's flat. On Saturday and Sunday mornings, Dunedin streets are filled with trash, broken furniture and smashed bottles, sidewalks are splattered with puke, dark corners smell like urine, bikes lie vandalized in bikes racks, and sometimes, even store fronts and cars are vandalized.
Now, I'm familiar with partying in college, but I have never seen a University involuntarily encourage it or a community so accepting of its negative consequences. Most people seem to have the attitude that it's "just kids having fun." Cleaning up puke for the hundredth time: Fun? Hmmmmm.
The front page of the freshman orientation activity guide published in a weekly paper advertised sales on cases of beer. This years annual "Freshman Toga Parade" (think Animal House) down Dunedin's main street turned into a violent riot with vandalized cars and broken store-front windows after older students living above the stores began throwing trash, food, vomit, and feces (yes, you read that right) down on the new students below. Shop owners were outraged and posters went up all over campus asking students if this type of behavior is what they wanted their degree to represent. However, no other steps have been taken to curtail student partying and only 3 out of over 2,000 students were arrested. Furthermore, the legal, cultural and psychological consequences for bad behavior are not very harsh or severe here so why should anyone care?
OK, I just have to ask, who in their right mind would allow thousands of drunk teenagers to have a toga party in the middle of the city??
Compared to the States, New Zealand takes a very relaxed attitude toward drinking, with 18 the drinking age and drinking allowed in most public areas. From what I've seen, Barfies definitely take advantage of this freedom and take partying to a whole new level, a scary one. On any given night you can see hordes of young drunk students stumbling out to the pubs or find a couch burning party at some one's flat. On Saturday and Sunday mornings, Dunedin streets are filled with trash, broken furniture and smashed bottles, sidewalks are splattered with puke, dark corners smell like urine, bikes lie vandalized in bikes racks, and sometimes, even store fronts and cars are vandalized.
Now, I'm familiar with partying in college, but I have never seen a University involuntarily encourage it or a community so accepting of its negative consequences. Most people seem to have the attitude that it's "just kids having fun." Cleaning up puke for the hundredth time: Fun? Hmmmmm.
The front page of the freshman orientation activity guide published in a weekly paper advertised sales on cases of beer. This years annual "Freshman Toga Parade" (think Animal House) down Dunedin's main street turned into a violent riot with vandalized cars and broken store-front windows after older students living above the stores began throwing trash, food, vomit, and feces (yes, you read that right) down on the new students below. Shop owners were outraged and posters went up all over campus asking students if this type of behavior is what they wanted their degree to represent. However, no other steps have been taken to curtail student partying and only 3 out of over 2,000 students were arrested. Furthermore, the legal, cultural and psychological consequences for bad behavior are not very harsh or severe here so why should anyone care?
OK, I just have to ask, who in their right mind would allow thousands of drunk teenagers to have a toga party in the middle of the city??
Monday, March 23, 2009
Shrek
This is an old story but I just can't get enough of this guy!
Shrek is a Merino sheep that managed to evade his farmers for 6 years until he was found in 2004, hiding in a cave in Central Otago on the South Island. Normally, Merino sheep are shorn every year, and after 6 years without a shave, Shrek's wool was incredibly long and thick. He was finally shorn on National Television, his wool weighing over 60 lbs!!!
Shrek is now a national icon. In 2004 he was taken to Parliment in Wellington to meet then-Prime Minister Helen Clark. Two years later Shrek celebrated his 10th birthday by having a shave on an iceberg floating off the coast of Dunedin.
Anyway, I just think this is a hilarious story and the pictures of Shrek after he was found hiding are even funnier!
Monday, March 16, 2009
Road Trip #2
Got your map ready? Our second road trip trip took us from Duendin to Te Anau, up to Milford Sound, back to Te Anau, down to Invercargill, out to Stewart Island and back, and through the Catlins on our way back to Dunedin.
The drive to Lake Te Anau was uninspiring, although we did pass through Gore, country capitol of New Zealand and a trout fisherman's paradise. The small town of Te Anau lies on the edge of of Lake Te Anau and mostly caters to tourists preparing for the famous Milford walking track or those heading up to Milford Sound. We were in the second group, but our first evening was spent taking a trip to the Glow Worm Caves on the edge of the lake. Apparently this extensive cave system (it takes 3 DAYS to travel through) was known to the Maori but it's location was kept secret from the Pakeha (white foreigners) until some guy finally found it in the 1940s after 4 years of searching.
We took a boat across the lake, watched some short videos about the cave, life if the glow worm, and the rare Takahe bird that lives in the mountains near by. Finally it was time to enter the cave! We followed our guide as he pointed out special features of the cave and then loaded into a small boat that took us into the pitch black grotto that was full of glow worms. It was breath-taking! You are not allowed to take photos inside the cave but you can check it out online at http://www.realjourneys.co.nz/main/glowwormcaves/
Lake Te Anau
Ok, I have to mention our accommodations at Te Anau. We booked 2 nights in a cabin at the Lakeview Holiday Park, which sounded luxurious. However, our "cabin" was a corrugated metal box that measured 10 ft x 10 ft for 3 people and their stuff. The bathrooms and cooking facilities were shared with about 50 other people. Now, I don't need a penthouse suite, but I prefer not to sleep in a claustrophobic and cob-webby shipping container. Oh well, I survived.
Our second day in Te Anau took us to Milford Sound in Fiordland National Park. We decided to take a tour bus up to Milford, the tiny town where the boat departed for our day out on the sound. And it was a good thing that we weren't driving! The Milford Sound road is incredibly scenic but is often crowded with tour buses and camper vans this time of year. With our pokey driving and sight-seeing, we would have pissed off some the more aggressive drivers. The road is also very narrow and windy, especially the closer you get to Milford. Because it was raining (Fiordland gets about 250 INCHES of rain a year), hundreds of waterfalls spontaneously cascaded down the sheer mountains that rose up on either side of the road.
Mirror Lakes, on the way to Milford
The boat trip on Milford Sound was windy and wet but it was amazing! Shear mountains, covered in beech forest and moss, drop off into dark water. More waterfalls thundered into the sound, although the high winds caused many of the falls to cascade diagonally. Unfortunately the photogenic Mitre Peak was shrouded in mist so we couldn't get that famous Milford Sound photo. But I did get a postcard! We ended the day with an absolutely delicious dinner at the Redcliff Cafe in Te Anau. I recommend the pork belly!
The drive to Lake Te Anau was uninspiring, although we did pass through Gore, country capitol of New Zealand and a trout fisherman's paradise. The small town of Te Anau lies on the edge of of Lake Te Anau and mostly caters to tourists preparing for the famous Milford walking track or those heading up to Milford Sound. We were in the second group, but our first evening was spent taking a trip to the Glow Worm Caves on the edge of the lake. Apparently this extensive cave system (it takes 3 DAYS to travel through) was known to the Maori but it's location was kept secret from the Pakeha (white foreigners) until some guy finally found it in the 1940s after 4 years of searching.
We took a boat across the lake, watched some short videos about the cave, life if the glow worm, and the rare Takahe bird that lives in the mountains near by. Finally it was time to enter the cave! We followed our guide as he pointed out special features of the cave and then loaded into a small boat that took us into the pitch black grotto that was full of glow worms. It was breath-taking! You are not allowed to take photos inside the cave but you can check it out online at http://www.realjourneys.co.nz/main/glowwormcaves/
Lake Te Anau
Ok, I have to mention our accommodations at Te Anau. We booked 2 nights in a cabin at the Lakeview Holiday Park, which sounded luxurious. However, our "cabin" was a corrugated metal box that measured 10 ft x 10 ft for 3 people and their stuff. The bathrooms and cooking facilities were shared with about 50 other people. Now, I don't need a penthouse suite, but I prefer not to sleep in a claustrophobic and cob-webby shipping container. Oh well, I survived.
Our second day in Te Anau took us to Milford Sound in Fiordland National Park. We decided to take a tour bus up to Milford, the tiny town where the boat departed for our day out on the sound. And it was a good thing that we weren't driving! The Milford Sound road is incredibly scenic but is often crowded with tour buses and camper vans this time of year. With our pokey driving and sight-seeing, we would have pissed off some the more aggressive drivers. The road is also very narrow and windy, especially the closer you get to Milford. Because it was raining (Fiordland gets about 250 INCHES of rain a year), hundreds of waterfalls spontaneously cascaded down the sheer mountains that rose up on either side of the road.
Mirror Lakes, on the way to Milford
The boat trip on Milford Sound was windy and wet but it was amazing! Shear mountains, covered in beech forest and moss, drop off into dark water. More waterfalls thundered into the sound, although the high winds caused many of the falls to cascade diagonally. Unfortunately the photogenic Mitre Peak was shrouded in mist so we couldn't get that famous Milford Sound photo. But I did get a postcard! We ended the day with an absolutely delicious dinner at the Redcliff Cafe in Te Anau. I recommend the pork belly!
Milford Sound
The Disappearing Waterfall
Milford Sound (Mitre Peak in the clouds on left)
The Disappearing Waterfall
Milford Sound (Mitre Peak in the clouds on left)
On day 3, we awoke to rainbows galore and headed south along the Southern Scenic Route on our way to Invercargill-the launch point for Stewart Island. We stopped for a beautiful walk near the Borland Lodge in Fiordland National Park. The walk took us through mossy beech forest and has become one of my favorite walks to date! We continued on the Scenic Route, passing through rolling green sheep pastures and tiny dot-on-the-map towns. We stopped to investigate the Clifton Caves, but without the advised 2 hours to explore and extra torches (flashlights), we instead promised to go back in the future. In Riverton, we visited some arts and crafts galleries with beautiful wood bowls, wool sweaters and paua jewelry.
Rainbow over Lake Manapouri
Mossy Beech Forest, Borland Nature Walk
Rainbow over Lake Manapouri
Mossy Beech Forest, Borland Nature Walk
We stayed the night in Invercargill and prepared for our 3 days on Stewert Island, a large island that lies roughly 25 miles south of the South Island. We took the 1 hour ferry from the town of Bluff, apparently the oldest town in New Zealand. It was a bumpy ride across Foveaux Strait, which is often said to be one of the roughest crossings in the world as it lies directly in the roaring 40s. We landed in Oban, the tiny (and only) town on the Island and were quickly whisked away in a van to our Bed and Breakfast in order to avoid the soaking rain that the dark sky began to pour upon us at that moment. It was a sign of things to come!
Stewart Island has a long Maori and European history. Today, most of the island is National Park, filled with bizarre birds and dense, lush rain forest made possible by the incredibly frequent and intense rains. It is said that on Stewart Island you can experience all 4 season in 1 hour. And we certainly did!
We took the first day to explore Halfmoon Bay around Oban and discovered beautiful golden beaches and emerald green waters. Stewart Island certainly is beautiful! The second day we took a quick boat ride out to Ulva Island, a forested island managed by the Department of Conservation as an Open Island Sanctuary. It is one of few predator-free sanctuaries for native birds and plants in New Zealand. We spent about 5 hours meandering our way through the forest, looking for birds that we would not see elsewhere in New Zealand. We managed to see the rare Saddlebacks, Robins, Kakas, Rifleman, Parakeets, Wood Pigeons, Weka, Tui, Bellbirds, and even the elusive Kiwi!
The Kiwi spotting was incredible, we never expected to see one of these flightless, nocturnal birds in the wild! We watched her poke around the leaf litter, unaware of our presence, sniffing out worms with her long thin beak until she lumbered off into the dark forest. Kiwi feathers look more like long brown hair and they have big, muscular legs. What a strange bird!
Around Halfmoon Bay, Stewart Island
Dead Man's Beach, Stewart Island
The elusive Kiwi, Ulva Island
Stewart Island has a long Maori and European history. Today, most of the island is National Park, filled with bizarre birds and dense, lush rain forest made possible by the incredibly frequent and intense rains. It is said that on Stewart Island you can experience all 4 season in 1 hour. And we certainly did!
We took the first day to explore Halfmoon Bay around Oban and discovered beautiful golden beaches and emerald green waters. Stewart Island certainly is beautiful! The second day we took a quick boat ride out to Ulva Island, a forested island managed by the Department of Conservation as an Open Island Sanctuary. It is one of few predator-free sanctuaries for native birds and plants in New Zealand. We spent about 5 hours meandering our way through the forest, looking for birds that we would not see elsewhere in New Zealand. We managed to see the rare Saddlebacks, Robins, Kakas, Rifleman, Parakeets, Wood Pigeons, Weka, Tui, Bellbirds, and even the elusive Kiwi!
The Kiwi spotting was incredible, we never expected to see one of these flightless, nocturnal birds in the wild! We watched her poke around the leaf litter, unaware of our presence, sniffing out worms with her long thin beak until she lumbered off into the dark forest. Kiwi feathers look more like long brown hair and they have big, muscular legs. What a strange bird!
Around Halfmoon Bay, Stewart Island
Dead Man's Beach, Stewart Island
The elusive Kiwi, Ulva IslandWe left Stewart Island early on a freezing cold morning, collected our car in Bluff, and drove east to Curio Bay in the Catlins. The Catlins, situated along the Southern Scenic Route, contain breathtaking scenery that actually reminds me of northern California. The cliffs are buffeted by crashing swells and roaring winds from Antarctica and the ancient podocarp forests march into the sea. We stayed in an amazing place on the beach in Curio Bay that actually had a heated floor in the bathroom! We spent the evening at a beach with a Jurassic-age petrified forest and watched the rare yellow-eyed penguins come ashore for the evening after a day fishing at sea.
Our last day on the road was spent exploring sites in the Catlins in the pouring rain. We visited the spectacular Cathedral Caves at low tide, explored beech forest, checked out a reed-filled estuary, and even managed to find our car surrounded on the road by a flock of sheep moving paddocks! I couldn't resist taking pictures, of course.
Wind swept trees at Slope Point, the Catlins
Petrified Forest, Curio Bay, the Catlins
Cathedral Caves, the Catlins
Sheep on the move!
Our last day on the road was spent exploring sites in the Catlins in the pouring rain. We visited the spectacular Cathedral Caves at low tide, explored beech forest, checked out a reed-filled estuary, and even managed to find our car surrounded on the road by a flock of sheep moving paddocks! I couldn't resist taking pictures, of course.
Wind swept trees at Slope Point, the Catlins
Petrified Forest, Curio Bay, the Catlins
Cathedral Caves, the Catlins
Sheep on the move!Finally, we headed north to Dunedin, sad to end our wonderful adventures around the South Island, but happy to be back home!
Road Trip #1
I'm back from a whirlwind of 3 weeks of exploring the South Island with my partner and his mom while she was visiting us. It was absolutely fantastic! If you have a NZ map handy, you can follow along: Road trip #1 took us from Dunedin up to Christchurch, across Arthur's Pass to the West Coast, up to Punakaiki, down the West Coast through Hokitika, Franz Josef and Fox glaciers, Haast, east across Haast Pass and the Southern Alps, to Wanaka, Queenstown, through Central Otago via Clyde and Alexandra, and back to Dunedin. Phew! Details below.
Christchurch is a hustling-bustling city that seemed a bit overwhelming to us after pokey Dunedin. We explored the beautiful Botanic Gardens, had a delicious dinner, and then spent the entire night listening to drunk kids outside in the central square below our hotel windows. Instead of staying another (sleepless) night, we got our money back and headed west. Arthur's Pass is an incredible drive through braided river valleys and alpine forest. We stopped at Castle Rock where there are hundreds of immense limestone tors that look like ancient city ruins (or a bunch of giant's teeth). We did a short hike through beech forest to a thundering waterfall and spotted the playful Kea, a large, alpine parrot that likes to pull the rubber off your windshield wipers and door seals.
Somewhere along Arthur's Pass
Limestone Tors, Castle Rock, Arthur's Pass
Once across the Pass we headed north to a little coastal settlement called Punakaiki. This area was one of my favorites and I can't wait to go back and explore more! Punakaiki is known for the famous pancake rock formations and they are incredible. Although there are also some amazing hikes through coastal rain forest and even some limestone caves to spelunk around in. We cautiously explored the dark recesses of the caves until I freaked out and decided to turn around. We stayed the night in an amazing cabin tucked into the nikau palms and rain forest and saw our first Wekas! These flightless, Jurassic-looking birds are very curious, one even mooched around in our car boot (trunk), looking for nibbletts!
Pancake Rocks, Punakaiki
Paparoa National Park, Punakaiki
Weka!
We then headed south to Hokitika, which is known for arts and crafts, especially jade carving, and the wild foods festival that serves rose petal beer, wasp larvae ice cream, and huhu grubs. Yum! Hokitika was rather un-inspiring, although we did stay at a very nice beachfront cabin that had great water pressure in the shower (a rare thing in NZ)! The next day we explored ancient Kahikatea and Rimu forest along the beautiful Lake Kaniere just inland from Hokitika. Despite reports of a storm over the Tasman Sea, the weather was incredible and we soaked up the sunshine! We also made a quick stop at Okarito Lagoon, a peaceful estuary that was the setting for the book The Bone People by Keri Hulme.
Okarito Lagoon
It was then onto the glaciers and Southern Alps. Wait, that's "glass-ears" not "glay-sures" if you speak Kiwi (sorry, it still cracks me up). Both Franz Josef and Fox glaciers are incredible, although you can't get too close to them, especially since 2 boys died at Fox glacier earlier this year when they were buried in ice when the glacier calved. Yikes! You can pay top dollar for a guided hike on the glaciers, or have a helicopter land on them, but we settled for independent hikes to wonderful viewing platforms. After a surprisingly good dinner in Fox, we drove on to Haast, a tiny town at the mouth of the Haast River and the furthest South you can drive on the West Coast. It was late when we finally pulled into town and we couldn't believe how dark it was. I mean pitch black! There is absolutely no ambient light from a city to light up the sky and the stars were insane.
Franz Josef Glacier
Fox Glacier
After a short detour through the UNESCO World Heritage Forest near Haast, we left the coast and headed inland on Haast Pass through the Alps. It was another incredibly scenic drive, with waterfalls, ancient forests, rivers and SAND FLIES! The West Coast is known for the pesky sand fly and though we had been fairly lucky so far, we encountered them on Haast Pass. For whatever reason, they liked me and I unwillingly donated my blood to more than a few sand flies. Man, do they itch!! We arrived in the resort town of Wanaka, on the south shores of lake Wanaka. We had some delicious Thai food for dinner and ended the night early in our teeny tiny room (we were beginning to notice a shrinking trend in our accommodations...).
Roman Bathrooms, Puzzling World, Wanaka
Tussock-covered hills, Cardrona Pass
From Queenstown it was on to Central Otago, which is very much like California's gold-mining country turned wine country. We stopped along the way to watch the bungy jumpers at AJ Hacketts famous bridge and sipped wine and tasted cheeses at Gibbston Valley Winery & Cheesery. We stayed the night in Clyde, a cute little town with historic stone buildings. Our bed and breakfast had a resident dog, a cat and a tiny kitten who was happy to play with me (I miss the family pets back home)! After some scenic drives, purchases from the local fruit stands and a failed attempt to photograph Merino sheep, it was back to Dunedin for some much needed rest (and laundry).
Stay tuned for Road Trip #2!
Christchurch is a hustling-bustling city that seemed a bit overwhelming to us after pokey Dunedin. We explored the beautiful Botanic Gardens, had a delicious dinner, and then spent the entire night listening to drunk kids outside in the central square below our hotel windows. Instead of staying another (sleepless) night, we got our money back and headed west. Arthur's Pass is an incredible drive through braided river valleys and alpine forest. We stopped at Castle Rock where there are hundreds of immense limestone tors that look like ancient city ruins (or a bunch of giant's teeth). We did a short hike through beech forest to a thundering waterfall and spotted the playful Kea, a large, alpine parrot that likes to pull the rubber off your windshield wipers and door seals.
Somewhere along Arthur's Pass
Limestone Tors, Castle Rock, Arthur's Pass
Pancake Rocks, Punakaiki
Paparoa National Park, Punakaiki
Weka!
Lake Kaniere
Okarito Lagoon
Franz Josef Glacier
Fox Glacier
Haast UNESCO World Heritage Park
Fantail Falls, Haast Pass
The next day, after an exhilarating hike up Mount Iron for a 360 degree view of the entire area, we made a quick visit to the quirky Puzzling World. Built by some eccentric man, Puzzling World houses a maze and some illusion rooms just outside Wanaka. We didn't do the maze (it can take up to 2 hours) but we did take some photos in the Roman bathrooms! We drove to Queenstown via the Cardrona Pass through tussock-covered mountains and gold mining country. Once in Queenstown we marveled at the madness of it all and declined to sky dive, bungy jump, sky swing, jet boat, or river raft. Although we plan on doing the Luge at some point. The next day we went on a beautiful hike through beech forest that we had hiked just after New Years. This time we found the historic tunnel that miners built through the mountain rock to access the river better. Good thing we're not claustrophobic!
Fantail Falls, Haast Pass
Roman Bathrooms, Puzzling World, Wanaka
Tussock-covered hills, Cardrona Pass
Stay tuned for Road Trip #2!
Thursday, March 5, 2009
Out of the Office
I have been out of the office, so to speak, traveling around the South Island with my partner and his mom. We've already had a fantastic 8 day trip up to Christchurch, across Arthur's Pass to the West Coast, down through coastal rain forest and glaciers, and through Haast Pass to Queenstown and Central Otago. We leave for a 7 day trip tomorrow to Lake Te Anau, Milford Sound, Stewart Island, and the Catlins. I will update the blog with all our adventures when we get back. Big thanks to all my devoted readers!
Monday, February 23, 2009
Ode to my House
Summer seems to have ended, marked by 4 days of cold rain. Dunedin houses are not well built and most are uninsulated, making for a chilly, damp house. Here is an ode to our own house...
Oh House!
My cold, cold house!
You welcome in the Arctic winds
With paper-thin plywood walls and no insulation
Doors with breezy gaps and windows that rattle
A house with one heat source that only warms the living room
leaving the bedrooms freezing
My ridiculous, impractical house!
Without a vent for a clothes dryer
or an electrical outlet in the bathroom
With a stovetop positioned in a corner that requires advanced yoga to use
A house that once locked from the inside, can only be unlocked with keys
making a quick escape impossible
My cheap, unattractive house!
With textured wallpaper in appalling colors
Curtains from unwanted fabric in the remnant pile
Gaps and uneven lines in the woodwork
A house with shoddy cabinets, plastic counter tops, unsecured faucets and mismatching carpet
Oh House!
An incompetent contractor built you
without using levels, T-squares, or chalk lines
He was not aware that kitchen cabinets and refrigerator doors need to fully open
in order to function properly
An incompetent contractor who forgot to put the bathroom doors back on their hinges
Who left behind pipes that drip, wood scraps in the backyard
and carpet tacks sticking up through the carpet for bare feet to find
Oh dreadful House!
I see your mates all over Dunedin
Oh House!
My cold, cold house!
You welcome in the Arctic winds
With paper-thin plywood walls and no insulation
Doors with breezy gaps and windows that rattle
A house with one heat source that only warms the living room
leaving the bedrooms freezing
My ridiculous, impractical house!
Without a vent for a clothes dryer
or an electrical outlet in the bathroom
With a stovetop positioned in a corner that requires advanced yoga to use
A house that once locked from the inside, can only be unlocked with keys
making a quick escape impossible
My cheap, unattractive house!
With textured wallpaper in appalling colors
Curtains from unwanted fabric in the remnant pile
Gaps and uneven lines in the woodwork
A house with shoddy cabinets, plastic counter tops, unsecured faucets and mismatching carpet
Oh House!
An incompetent contractor built you
without using levels, T-squares, or chalk lines
He was not aware that kitchen cabinets and refrigerator doors need to fully open
in order to function properly
An incompetent contractor who forgot to put the bathroom doors back on their hinges
Who left behind pipes that drip, wood scraps in the backyard
and carpet tacks sticking up through the carpet for bare feet to find
Oh dreadful House!
I see your mates all over Dunedin
Friday, February 20, 2009
Screw the Cork
FYI: 90% of New Zealand wines and most Australian wines have screw tops. If you bring a bottle of wine with a cork to a dinner party here, but sure to bring your own corkscrew too, 'cause some kitchens don't have them!
Chinese Democracy in New Zealand?
Yes, Chinese Democracy is alive and well in New Zealand, in the form of the latest album from Guns n’ Roses, that is!
Remember Guns n’ Roses, those long-haired, bandanna-wearing rockers who welcomed you to the jungle back in 1987…? Well, Axel Rose has certainly found an enthusiastic and dedicated audience in Kiwis. In fact, from what I’ve heard, Guns n’ Roses appear to be an institution in New Zealand. The airwaves are crammed with songs from Chinese Democracy, and on any given Friday night, pubs are wallpapered with Axle’s voice screeching out Sweet Child Of Mine.
Now I like Guns n’ Roses every once in awhile, but it still strikes me as odd that out of all the great American rock bands, Guns n’ Roses would be so incredibly popular here in New Zealand. It’s almost as bizarre as David Hasselhoff’s über popularity in Germany. Almost.
Remember Guns n’ Roses, those long-haired, bandanna-wearing rockers who welcomed you to the jungle back in 1987…? Well, Axel Rose has certainly found an enthusiastic and dedicated audience in Kiwis. In fact, from what I’ve heard, Guns n’ Roses appear to be an institution in New Zealand. The airwaves are crammed with songs from Chinese Democracy, and on any given Friday night, pubs are wallpapered with Axle’s voice screeching out Sweet Child Of Mine.
Now I like Guns n’ Roses every once in awhile, but it still strikes me as odd that out of all the great American rock bands, Guns n’ Roses would be so incredibly popular here in New Zealand. It’s almost as bizarre as David Hasselhoff’s über popularity in Germany. Almost.
Thursday, February 19, 2009
Black Paua!
Paua (pronounced pow-a) is Maori for abalone and the black paua is the most abundant here in New Zealand. The black paua was a staple in the Maori diet and the shell was prized as a treasure. Today you can often find paua shells washed up on the beach and carved paua jewelry is very popular tourist souvenir.
I grew up eating abalone, thanks to my dad and uncles, and I absolutely love it, so I am excited to catch, er, pry some off the rocks at some point. In our area the legal limit is 10 paua per person, per day and they must be at least 5 inches long.
If you’ve never had abalone, you are missing out. Abalone is like nothing you’ve ever tasted! When cooking it, I prefer to thinly slice it, dredge it in some egg and herbed breadcrumbs, and then lightly pan fry it in butter and olive oil. BBQ abalone is delicious, especially dipped in garlic-herb butter, and abalone chowder is amazing too. Next time you have the opportunity to eat fresh abalone (don’t even think about that canned crap), go for it!
I grew up eating abalone, thanks to my dad and uncles, and I absolutely love it, so I am excited to catch, er, pry some off the rocks at some point. In our area the legal limit is 10 paua per person, per day and they must be at least 5 inches long.
If you’ve never had abalone, you are missing out. Abalone is like nothing you’ve ever tasted! When cooking it, I prefer to thinly slice it, dredge it in some egg and herbed breadcrumbs, and then lightly pan fry it in butter and olive oil. BBQ abalone is delicious, especially dipped in garlic-herb butter, and abalone chowder is amazing too. Next time you have the opportunity to eat fresh abalone (don’t even think about that canned crap), go for it!
Wednesday, February 18, 2009
Red Red WIne
OK, lets talk about New Zealand wine (finally). Everyone knows that New Zealand makes excellent Sauvignon Blancs and Chardonnays. Go to your local supermarket in the States and you’ll see heaps of these Kiwi wines on the shelves. Personally, I’m not much of a white wine drinker and I absolutely loathe buttery-oaky Chardonnay. But I do like the sweeter whites and there are some delicious Rieslings, Gewürztraminers, and late harvest wines here. I plan on drinking lots of them, of course.
I can’t really say the same for New Zealand reds, yet. Pinot Noir is made and celebrated around the South Island, but so far I haven’t found any that I like. The Pinots I’ve had have been really dry and minerally. This is probably due to the fact that I can’t afford the good Pinots….
I tend to favor big reds, like juicy Zinfandels, smoky Merlots, and bold Cabernets. However, Zinfandel is a California thing and the reds I buy here are from Australia. With a warmer climate, Australian reds tend to be very similar to California reds. I did find a Ravenswood Zinfandel in a wine merchant shop here in Dunedin. Of course I didn’t buy it, it was triple the price you would pay in the U.S. and I’m trying to expand my wine horizons while I’m here.
Although, choosing a wine from the crowded shelves at the market can be a bit overwhelming. There are so many wines from New Zealand and Australia and I don’t recognize any of them! Actually, that’s not true. I know Yellow Tail quite well, and yes, I have bought it here in a state of petrifying panic at having to quickly choose a bottle from so many unfamiliar and unheard of wineries. But this only happens if my partner is shopping with me……
In the face of such adversity, I have adopted a system of choosing a bottle according to its label (after the price of course). Kiwis and Aussies are not stuffy or pretentious about their label art and there are some cool labels to be found here! So far my method has met with reasonable success. I am hoping to get out to some wineries in the next month for tastings so I can find some truly great New Zealand wines.
I can’t really say the same for New Zealand reds, yet. Pinot Noir is made and celebrated around the South Island, but so far I haven’t found any that I like. The Pinots I’ve had have been really dry and minerally. This is probably due to the fact that I can’t afford the good Pinots….
I tend to favor big reds, like juicy Zinfandels, smoky Merlots, and bold Cabernets. However, Zinfandel is a California thing and the reds I buy here are from Australia. With a warmer climate, Australian reds tend to be very similar to California reds. I did find a Ravenswood Zinfandel in a wine merchant shop here in Dunedin. Of course I didn’t buy it, it was triple the price you would pay in the U.S. and I’m trying to expand my wine horizons while I’m here.
Although, choosing a wine from the crowded shelves at the market can be a bit overwhelming. There are so many wines from New Zealand and Australia and I don’t recognize any of them! Actually, that’s not true. I know Yellow Tail quite well, and yes, I have bought it here in a state of petrifying panic at having to quickly choose a bottle from so many unfamiliar and unheard of wineries. But this only happens if my partner is shopping with me……
In the face of such adversity, I have adopted a system of choosing a bottle according to its label (after the price of course). Kiwis and Aussies are not stuffy or pretentious about their label art and there are some cool labels to be found here! So far my method has met with reasonable success. I am hoping to get out to some wineries in the next month for tastings so I can find some truly great New Zealand wines.
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